Sunday, July 15, 2007

Jersey- More than Cows





Jersey- not the US state New Jersey, but “old” Jersey- is one of the UK Channel Islands. It is actually closer to France (you can see the coast of France on a clear day!) than to the UK. I think it was Victor Hugo who said the Channel Islands were “Bits of Europe dropped by France and picked up by England.” Jersey (like the cow- renowned for its high milk yield and amazing taste, note the photo), Guernsey (also a breed of cow), Herm, Sark and Alderney are the Channel Islands (Herm and Sark seen here). Here’s a nice shot of the market in downtown St. Hélier, the capital.

Fun in Jersey





Jersey, while very small, has a very diverse coastline. It was very much like the Oregon coast: sand on some beaches, rocks on others, and others with straight cliffs. There are a few places (like Corbière lighthouse and Elizabeth Castle) that you can walk to at low tide. But be careful- don’t get stuck as the tide comes in! The tide can reach 38 feet. One of me on one of the rare sunny days that we saw. The other sunny day Monty and I rode a tandem bike along the cycle path by the ocean front. So fun!

Guernsey and Victor Hugo



We took a day trip to Guernsey to see Victor Hugo’s house. He lived there while in exile. He was much more than an author- painter, decorator, philosopher. A real renaissance man, only during the mid-late1800s. Photo with flowers is the view from Hugo’s bedroom. Also, the view from the apartment I stayed in. Right on the water.

Buda and Pest






We spent the following week relaxing in beautiful Budapest. It is actually two cities (Buda and Pest- pronounced Pesht by Hungarians) divided by the Danube. The parliament building is probably the most recognizable- stunning architecture! Budapest is known for its thermal baths- many of which are in buildings from Ottoman days. We went to 2 Turkish spas, the famous Gellért (gorgeous mosaic tile decorate the inside) and the more recent Széchenyi, with phenomenal outside pools. Both were beautiful and relaxing.

Brief Bratislava



Bratislava, Slovakia, and Vienna, Austria, are Europe’s closest capitals. Bratislava is a lovely little town that is slowly emerging from the Iron Curtain of not-so-long-ago. We spent a day there before moving on to Budapest. This is a photo of a church and a standard menu at most restaurants.

Off to Vienna!




All I did in Vienna was eat cake. I ate cake in cute little konditterei, before and after the opera (Die Fledermaus), at intermission at “Much Ado About Nothing” in German and at piano concerts, and here at Shoenbrunn, the Habsburg palace. We went to the Belvedere to see the Klimt- pretty sure there was cake involved. Vienna is a beautiful, clean city full of history and culture. Monty and I spent a fabulous week there enjoying the sun, lilacs, and of course, the cake!

Next Stop: France



After leaving la Réunion on April 7, I spent time with Morgane and Monty in Paris. Here are Morgane and I at Giverny, Monet’s home and gardens.

Volcano Eruption





My last week in la Réunion saw the pretty substantial eruption of Piton de la Fournaise, the very much active volcano on the island. Here you can see the lava flow down the hillside and into the ocean, producing an enormous column of steam as it hits the sea. The lava that flowed out that it crossed the national highway blocking it in 2 places. In fact, there was so much lava that it significantly increased the land area of the eastern side of the island. Crazy! Also, the lava that spilled into the ocean heated up the water so much that it killed a lot of fish. Many new species were recently discovered (found floating on the ocean surface!). The next photo shows the eruption spewing lava. Lastly, the eruption, steam column, and viewers. I love this photo. It reminds me a bit of Close Encounters of the Third Kind. And, of course, there’s me loving my first volcano erupting experience.

Madagascar







Madagascar is perhaps the most fascinating place I have ever been. It is one of the world’s poorest nations, yet the people do not seem to feel sorry for themselves. Instead they work hard, rebuild after tragedy (i.e. cyclones and flooding) and are friendly and generous of foreigners (the Malagasy word for foreigner is vasa). I was amazed that everyone in Madagascar smiles. Perhaps this was the contrast of living in la Réunion. Spending 3 weeks (early-late March 2007) was a real lesson in humility and gratitude.

These photos (and those to follow) give you a very brief overview of the beauty in nature and people that I experienced. 1- View of Antananarivo, the capital city. Called “Tana” by locals and foreigners who have a hard time saying “Antananarivo.” 3- The church on a hillside of Tana. Reminiscent of Eastern European architecture. 4- Monty admiring the stained-glass window light shining through in the church.

Madagascar

Madagascar is perhaps the most fascinating place I have ever been. It is one of the world’s poorest nations, yet the people do not seem to feel sorry for themselves. Instead they work hard, rebuild after tragedy (i.e. cyclones and flooding) and are friendly and generous of foreigners (vasa). I was amazed that everyone in Madagascar smiles. Perhaps this was the contrast of living in la Réunion. Spending 3 weeks (early-late March 2007) was a real lesson in humility and gratitude.

The following photos give you a very brief overview of the beauty in nature and people that I experienced. Photos (not necessarily in this order- they load funny…) 1- View of Antananarivo, the capital city. Called “Tana” by locals and foreigners who have a hard time saying “Antananarivo.” 2- Me and my travel partner (and honey) Monty. We were both assistants at the same school in la Réunion. 3- The church on a hillside of Tana. Reminiscent of Eastern European architecture. 4- Monty admiring the stained-glass window light shining through in the church.

Outside Tana






1-Taxi brousse. The best way to get around Madagascar. They don’t really have roads (they have what I call “not roads”), so you’ve got to risk it on sketchy roads in a van filled to the brim with other passengers. You throw your stuff on top, hope it makes the journey, and ride for hours in cramped quarters.

2- Another mode of transportation, the Pousse-Pousse. Probably my least favorite. They’re basically a type of rickshaw- you sit in it and you are pulled by the “driver.” I wasn’t really comfortable with the idea of being pulled around town by another human being seeing as I am perfectly capable of walking. Had to do it a couple times under duress.

3- View of some houses in the central-east Tana.

4- We biked 7km to this lake one day. Can you see the fishermen?

5- Madagascar produces lots of sugar and rice. Sadly and ironically, they export so much rice that many of their people are starving.

The Faces of Madagascar




1-Children playing in the street. No kids that we saw had shoes.
2- A boy by some greenery in Tana. Adorable.
3- The Malagasy are amazing- they carry EVERYTHING on their heads! I maybe saw 3 people the whole time I was there carrying stuff in their hands- and that’s only because they already had stuff on their head.

A Walk On The Wild Side






1- Black and White Ruffed Lemur. My favorite! Look at his little beard… he’s ruffed!
2- The Safika- if you see a furry guy with gold legs, this is the Safika. Refuses to eat bananas offered to him, only likes the goyavier. Oh la la.
3- The largest of the lemur species, the Indri. Like a 4-year-old in a panda suit!
4- Rrribbit! A frog on our night walk.
5- Katie with a Brown Lemur on her shoulders. Check out his little hands. Proof enough for evolution in my mind.

Thursday, March 1, 2007

Out of the Storm...

...and into the humidity! DEAR GOD IT'S HOT AND MUGGY!! All is well here, back to work today (much to my chagrin- of course we started again on the day when I have to get up at 5am) and tomorrow. It's strange to go to the grocery stores and see no food on the shelves, no food in the dairy cases, no veggies or fruit... The government has imposed price fixing on all produce so the farmers can't hike up the cost too much due to ruined crops. That was considerate. Also, there are a ton of mosquitos. I've taken to calling all of my bites "chikungunya-" I like to say "Ah! My chinungunya itches!" Don't worry, I'm sure I don't have it, but I have become vigilent about putting on my DEET. You tell me, reader, which is worse: cancer or chik? :)

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Back on Alerte Rouge

As of 6pm this evening we have been placed back on "alerte rouge." The storm is coming back our way. While they tell us we should be back at work/school on Thursday, my guess is no... Still OK, just a bit of cabin feaver. Bisous.

Gamede, (clang!) Round II

First, please do not panic. I am fine and I will be fine!

We have come through vigilence cyclonique (a cautionary advisory), alerte orange (danger imminent in 24 hours, schools close), alerte rouge (red alert-the worst will be here within 3 hours. this means get in your house and button up!), prudence cyclonique (post-red alert, getting better but stay put, schools closed, flooding, no water or power, etc.). After a day of prudence cyclonique, la Réunion has been put back on alerte orange; many (including myself) believe we shoud never have been taken from alerte rouge.

Cyclone Gamède is very big and very powerful, is causing a lot of destruction, and is not going anywhere very quickly.

It's strange, though, because from all the news footage of hurriccanes in the US I totally expected howling winds, trees blowing everywhere, houses shaking, etc. The winds up in Golden Gate Canyon in Colorado were much more intense than these winds! But then again, I am in a solid (albeit leaking) cement house up in the hills of Saint Denis, so I could be out of the worst of the winds, but still...

This is not to say that it is not windy or intense. I have never been in a storm quite like this- it has rained HARD for 5 days non-stop (not like in Oregon, much harder), it is constantly windy, there are leaves everywhere, our balconies are flooding, our ceiling is leaking this wierd pink water, we can't drink the water from the tap, we can see trees (tropical trees like banana trees with supple trunks, not baobabs or sequoias) leaning over or grounded, big highway bridges in the south are washed out, a dredging dock in St Denis was washed away by 10m high waves, and the Route Littoral is a mess.

We're still holding up well in the house. We're not at each others' throats, we're not cranky, and while we're not sleeping a ton, we're okay. It would be nice to get out to go to the grocery store... Our landlords have come over three times to make sure we're okay and that the house is holding up. They saved our power by untangling a branch that had downed our power line. We have closed the shutters but it gets so stale in here that we open a door or two for circulation. SEE?!?! It's bad but it's not THAT bad.

The images here are not intended to scare you- indeed they are to assure you that people are out taking these photos therefore everything is/will be okay. Think of it as a science lesson. Besides, it's always kind of melodramatic to see destruction footage.

As far as I know there have been a few injuries but no deaths. Here are a few websites that we use here to get information. It was pointed out to me that they are in French... sorry, that didn't really occur to me. If you don't want to brave the en français webpages, try googling it.

http://www.meteo.fr/temps/domtom/La_Reunion/TGPR/saison/saison_trajGP.html
http://www.meteo-reunion.com/cyclone/
http://www.orange.fr/





Saturday, February 24, 2007

Cyclone Gamede

As of this morning l'île de la Réunion is on official "orange" cyclone warning, next step to come is the "rouge (red)". Cyclone Gamède is HUGE! It's like 1000 miles across or something. It is only (right now) a category 2, but it is expected to get up to a 4. The house has been boarded up (we have those wonderful French shutters that seal you in tight), we've cleared the veranda of table and chairs, the garden of loose branches and mangoes, we've stocked up on water, matches, food, etc., and now we're physically (but perhaps not mentally) prepared for spending the next 48-72 hours safe in the house. It's hot and stale in here. But, we all like to play cards, watch movies, read and cook so I'm sure we'll figure out something to do with our time.

Apparetnly cyclones in the southern hemisphere spin the other direction... unlike the toilets. My question now is, what happens if the storm starts above the equator and heads south: does it change spinning direction?

Here is a weather link if you are interested in Gamède's progression: http://www.meteo-reunion.com/cyclone/

Friday, February 16, 2007

VIGILENCE CYCLONIQUE!!

The first official cyclone warning of the year has been issued. The cyclone is called Favio and is slowly moving toward the southern coast of the island. It is far enough away (currently 400 km and will not hit us directly but will indeed get closer) that we are not really worried, but we have stocked up on water and stuff just in case because after cyclones the water is either cut off or is un-drinkable. The housemates and I are secretly (or not-so-secretly) excited for this (being cooped up in the house, using candles, playing games) though we realize it is a bit selfish. We live in a nice, solid house that will not be destroyed by a cyclone and there are thousands of Réunionnais here who are not as lucky as we are... A cyclone (cyclone = Indian Ocean, hurriccane = Atlantic, typhoon = Pacific) will be a new natural disaster for me (already got earthquake and fire), and while I am excited for it, I also hope it is mild and no one injured and no major damage done.

Z'oreilles

"Les oreilles," or z'oreilles in Creole, means ears in French. The non-Creole (aka white metropolitan French) population are referred to as "z'oreilles." This is slightly dorogatory but mostly just kind of funny... until you learn the true meaning behind the word.

Most people refer to z'oreilles because the white folks from France all have red ears, i.e. a sunburn. This is the cute meaning for z'oreilles. What the original meaning signifies is when the English and French colonizers held the natives in slavery, the slaves (Marrons) often ran away and hid in the mountains. If they were found their ears were cut off as an indication that they had runaway... hence the "zoreilles."

Saturday, January 27, 2007

A Day In The Life...



I have found that it is very hard to have a daily routine here. When I was in college I would get up, go to class, work out, come home to shower and eat, go to class, then to work, study in the evenings, and that was life. This routine (and close proximity of home-school-gym) made it easy to fit everything I needed or wanted to do into one day. As a dedicated "multi-tasker," I thrive on busy days and crammed schedules. This was before I moved to Réunion.

Here no day is the same because my work schedule is so inconsistant, but I will try to give you a general idea. The Creoles here get up really early (probably because it's so darn hot) but I usually get up around 9. Mostly this is because I fall asleep late because there are so many dogs barking. First the little yippy ones start, then after a few minutes the deep-voiced big dogs decide they need to comment on the situation, and for the grand finale both together. It is SO obnoxious! But, I digress. Getting up is nice because, while it's hot, we have a beautiful veranda with a spectacular view of the ocean. My roommates and I usually eat breakfast out here to catch a bit of a breeze.

If I have to get to work, I need to leave at least an hour and a half before I need to start class because that is how long the bus route takes. I walk down the chemin des orangers past 7 barking dogs, a slew of chickens and geese, and dozens of fallen mangoes to the bus stop, about 7 minutes away. To get to work I take the 7 down the huge hill that is Moufia to catch the 10 (which is ALWAYS late). The 10 takes an ambling route through St Denis, but I kind of like the journey. I usually get on early enough to get a seat in the back, which is a miracle becuase it doesn't really occur to people here to move out of the entrance of the busses. They just all stand there making it hard for more people to get on. If they moved, they would all have more room, but I guess they like their cramped, sweaty quarters and their view of an empty back of the bus. I like to use my time in the bus to read, but you can be sure that I am the only one doing this.

The IUFM (where I work- Institut Universitaire de la Formation des Maitres) is on the opposite side of St Denis from where I live, in a posh area called Bellepierre. I am legally not allowed to discuss anything about the establishment on any kind of public forum, so I will simply say that I have anywhere from 3 to 6 hours of class in any one day (usually conversation classes), then I make the long journey home. Getting the 10 back is the most stressful part of my day, but once I am on I'm good to go.

My life pretty much revolves around the bus: I walk to the bus, I wait for the bus, I ride the bus and I do it all again later.

On days that I give private English lessons my routine changes a bit: I prep at 9:30 for my student who comes to the house shows up around 10, we work for an hour, then I rush off to the IUFM. When I go to another's office usually around 11, I take the bus and walk a bit. Another tends to meet me at the house around 5pm. These lessons are fun and challenging for me. Each student (I'm thankfully down to just three) is at a different level (one very beginner, another about "year 3-4", and another who is quite good) and this makes for quite a bit of preparation time. I enjoy my time with my students and I love seing them progress, but I do not want to do this forever. I much prefer teaching French. My débutant student usually shows up with fresh lychees or pineapples from his garden.

Food shopping is the other way I spend my time. If not every day, I go to the market every other day. Because it's quite a walk up the hill to get to our house, I can't carry too much a once. Plus, I like the idea of getting fresh fruits and veggies so frequently, even if I know I have seen the same cucumbers at the stand for atleast 8 days. It is a skill to pick out the freshest produce. Walking around the Petit Marché with my brightly-colored straw basket makes me feel like I fit in, even though I know that to everyone there I do not. Then I head to my favorite grocery store (Champoin) for the stuff I can't get in the market, then take the 7 or the 8 home.

Getting home is always a relief after the walk up the hill. There is usually at least one roommate around; it's nice to not come home to an empty house. Cooking usually works itself out nicely: someone starts around 6 and the Spanish girls never at until 10pm. We normally don't have to fight for space or dishes, but there are moments... I especially like our weekly house dinners.

Now that we have the Internet there is somewhat of a queue for using one of the three computers, but usually everyone gets a little bit in. Since I don't own one of the computers here I usually wait until it seems like one of the owners has finished, but sometimes it becomes necessary to ask to use one. Since the Internet arrived we are somewhat less social with one another, but I guess there's enough talking that occurs in other parts of the day that I don't feel like we are totally anti-social.

The bathroom that I use is in Cleo's room, so I try to get ready for bed before she goes to sleep. Our bathroom is bright pink- my favorite! The toilet is in a separate room (typically French).

This was long and perhaps boring, but sometimes that's how I feel about my days here. I'm glad I captured a small essence of my life in a blog. Seriously, though, most of my days are, overall, good. I usually always enjoy my time at the IUFM, I love shopping at the Petit Marché, and I enjoy cooking at night. Thanks for reading, now enjoy some pictures!

Pamplemousses Gardens, Ile Maurice




The Sir Seewooagur Ramgoolam Gardens are colloquially known as "Pamplemousses," or Grapefruits. While we did not see any grapefruit trees, we did tour the most rennowned gardens in the tropics. Baobabs and hundreds of other exotic trees lined the paths, lotus gardens brought a fresh touch to the scenery, and the wildlife (deer and giant tortises) an unexpected but interesting sight. The best by far, however, were the giant lilypads in the very center of the gardens. These suckers are huge! 3-4 feet wide on average, these large lilypads can hold a decent amount of weight. The lilies that grow around them have a fascenating life cycle: they bloom white in the morning, turn a light shade of pink around 2pm and by 5pm they are bright magenta. They die at night and new lilies bloom in the morning.